Friday, November 9, 2012

Angkor Wat


What to Bring
As I bid the office goodbye that busy Tuesday afternoon, Ms. Maita saw my computer bag and asked me if that’s all I’m bringing for the 5-day trip. Yes, madam, traveling light is one of my talents. (There’s no computer in that bag though; and now, three days into the trip, I realized that I still have five extra shirts; I can still improve on this.) Tip to those traveling to Siem Reap: bring an umbrella/cap and light clothes because it is very hot. Bring a pair of good walking shoes, too.

Save on the cost of money; no need to change to KH Riel, just bring small dollar bills. US Dollars circulate alongside the local currency (US$1 = KHR 4000 = PHP40).

Same electric socket as Manila’s

Moving Around
Upon touchdown, take a tuktuk to your hotel ($5). Most hotels provide free pick-up with prior reservation. Tuktuk (which functions like the Philippines’ tricylcle) is the most common mode of transportation in Siem Reap, perhaps also the best means to explore the Angkor Archeological Park, especially for a group of 2-3 ($15/day). Bicycle for rent, motorcycle and car taxis are also available.

Dining and Shopping
Cheap eats start at $1.25 (fried rice or noodle soup, with free tea) in the Old Market area. There are classy Khmer and French cuisine as well ($3-12/meal). Famous diners include Khmer Kitchen and Blue Pumpkin in the Old Market. For souvenirs, I got some shirts 3 for US$5 in Angkor Wat, which is also available at the Old Market where I got a batik summer dress for $6. I bought Khmer curry powder, lemon grass and cookies for pasalubong. The shops also sell scarves with a lot of colors and materials to choose from. They have trinkets, the usual 5-for-a-dollar Angkor Wat keychains, magnets, postcards and elephant coin purse. There are also paintings, wood carvings and crocodile leather goods, but they’re not my cup of tea.

Where to Stay
Siem Reap offers a wide range of accommodation for all types of travelers. Hyatt is opening in 2013.
My hubby and I stayed at Mandalay Inn, which was recommended to us by my officemate who visited the place last year. For US$16/night/room, we got basic amenities like free airport pick-up, hot and cold shower, queen bed, a/c, wifi in the room, free maps and guidebook, and the staff are really friendly. It’s located near the roundabout (rotunda) in the Old Market area. reservation@mandalayinn.com

We wanted to go to Laos or Thailand or Vietnam, but decided it’s too far and inconvenient, so we just moved to another hotel with prospects of finding a better deal for our friends and family (and my blog readers); we found a fan room with two double beds for $8/night at Angkor Park Guesthouse, just across the street with wifi, h/c shower, fresh linen and bottle of water daily, option for a/c +$4. angkorpark@gmail.com

The Angkor Tour
Guidebooks say “if you’re visiting only two temples, Angkor Wat and Bayon should be the ones”. Bayon is in Angkor Thom, a 3sq.km.walled city which was the last capital of the empire. Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm (where giant roots hug the temple ruins) are the most photographed areas in the park; the three combined with other nearby attractions is a good one day tour called Small Circuit ($15 for the tuktuk service). Sunrise at Angkor Wat (alternative: Sra Srang); sunset at Phnom Bakheng (alternative: Angkor Wat); must-see but crowded. My personal favorite is Bantaey Srey (Citadel of Women) which lies 38km from Siem Reap, needing an extra 45min travel time; it is usually combined with a trip to Kbal Spean, but you must be really fit for the 1.5km uphill trek to see the carvings on the river bed. Do this in the morning, plus the Grand Circuit in the afternoon for day 2—mostly brick temples outside the Small Circuit; $30 for the tuktuk service. Entrance fee to the Angkor Park is $20/day; $40/3days; $60/week.  

Verdict
This is the most convenient, most interesting, and cheapest among the 7 ASEAN countries we’ve visited so far. We only spent $300/pax, including airfare, for the 5-day trip!